Jungle Fever: Debunking Hollywood’s Africa
When my granddaughter visited South Africa, she had a rather amusing encounter at the checkout line. The young cashier, asked her if all Americans believed that monkeys frolicked on our streets and lions served as our trusty steeds. It seems the Hollywood version of Africa had painted a picture in their minds of a wild, untamed land where every day is an adventure straight out of an Indiana Jones movie.
The City of Many Names (and Strong Winds!)
I live in a place that’s experiencing a bit of an identity transformation. You might know it as Port Elizabeth, or maybe you’re more familiar with its nickname, “The Windy City.” (And yes, the nickname is pretty spot-on—hold onto your hats!) But recently, it’s undergone a change, shedding its colonial moniker in favor of embracing its Xhosa roots. Now, it’s officially known as Gqeberha (try saying “guh-bear-ha”… it’s a bit of a tongue-twister, but you’ll get there).
So, why the multiple identities? Well, here’s a brief history lesson:
- The Portuguese were the first Europeans to arrive, and upon seeing a beautiful bay, they decided to name it simply “Bay.” Not the most creative bunch, were they?
- Then the British arrived, led by a man named Rufane who was pining for his late wife. In a move of sentimental tribute, he named the town after her.
- Fast forward a few centuries, and there’s a shift towards recognizing the original inhabitants of the area. Hence, the name Gqeberha, which is derived from the Baakens River that meanders through the city.
As an expat who landed here in July 2019, I’ve had a front-row seat to witness the city’s evolving identity. It’s a place where the remnants of colonial history intermingle with the vibrant spirit of South Africa, creating a blend that’s both captivating and a tad chaotic. So buckle up and hold onto your hat—I’m thrilled to take you on a tour of my adopted home!
The name Gqeberha is as impossible for my tongue as holding onto my hat in a gale-force wind. Don’t get me wrong, I fully embrace the city’s rich heritage, but pronunciation-wise, I’m still fumbling. For now, it’s Port Elizabeth with a side of sheepish grins and apologetic shrugs. But hey, at least its nickname, “The Windy City,” is something I relate to on a deep, windswept level! More days than not, it’s a “bad” hair day, but I just laugh and embrace the wonderful feel of the wind as it sweeps my troubles away.
Saturdays in the Surf: Diving into March Madness at the Bell Buoy Challenge
SATURDAY 23th MARCH 2024
To give you a taste of my quirky expat life, let’s dive into a typical ocean-side day, where the norm includes everything but the mundane. Bright and early on a fine Saturday, March 23rd, the air buzzed with anticipation for the Nelson Mandela Bay Bell Buoy Challenge. Mr. P’s buddy, always up for a dare, decided to plunge once again into one of the globe’s most notorious aquatic gauntlets. This isn’t your average dip in the pool; we’re talking about a swim so tough, even seasoned dolphins might think twice.
The race unfolds in Algoa Bay’s Indian Ocean waters, a potential World Heritage Site bursting at the seams with critters above and below the surface. It’s a veritable underwater carnival, ranked in the top four global biodiversity hotspots. As the swimmers powered through the waves, it was a splashy reminder of the wonderfully wild life we lead here, sandwiched between the marvels of land and sea.🐬
Sun, Sand, and Sportsmanship: A Slice of Life on the South African Coast
The NMB Bellbuoy Challenge had swimmers practically inventing a new backstroke this year! Mother Nature was in a mischievous mood, blasting everyone with gale-force onshore winds on Friday. By Saturday, she’d flipped the script, whipping up a hair-raising offshore breeze. The Zsports Events SA crew, bless their hearts, weren’t about to send swimmers into a wind-whipped washing machine. So, they hit snooze on the start time, delaying it by a leisurely 1 hr 45 min, hoping the ocean would calm its nerves.
Once the whistle blew, those swimmers took off like rockets! The leaders were practically skimming the water, rounding the Bellbuoy 2.5km offshore in a mind-boggling 28 minutes. Guess that’s what happens when you’re racing the wind!
Mr. P’s Open Water Redemption…or Rescue Mission?
The NMB Bell Buoy Challenge is more than a mere swim; it’s an epic battle of endurance. With currents that can potentially double your swim time and the eerie presence of sharks in the deep waters, it’s no surprise that only 118 of the 138 brave souls who entered managed to finish this year. As a spectator, I too face my own set of fears: watching my loved ones confront this daunting task. My husband, once a proud surfer, now contemplates taking on the swim despite his past injury – a fractured clavicle. It’s either a tale of remarkable comeback or an impending disaster. As for me, with a modest “C” in paddleboarding and a lifelong discomfort with open water (thanks to a landlocked upbringing), I’ll be the one on the shore, shouting words of encouragement and silently praying against the odds of another injury or the terrifying thought of him being carried away by the currents.
Simple Pleasures: Beach Days the Port Elizabeth Way
After the excitement of the Bell Buoy challenge faded, our Saturday took on a gentler rhythm. While Mr. P couldn’t resist his own dip in the sea, I wandered the boardwalk, soaking in the everyday energy: families sprawled on the sand, surfers riding the waves, treasure hunters lost in their scans. The sun was warm, a perfect 23C (or 73F for my fellow Americans). There’s a joyful peacefulness to a beach day like this – the kind that reminds you why we chose to make this place home.
The Other Side of Paradise: Expat Realities
Of course, living here isn’t just about sunny Saturdays. I’d be lying if I said adjusting as an expat is easy. Sure, I love a beach walk and the sound of the waves, but I’ll never match Mr. P’s passion for the open water. I’m still holding out for snorkeling in the calmer pools… once I clear the beginner hurdles, apparently! There’s beauty and warmth here, but also harsh realities – the poverty is heartbreaking, the constant security a stark reminder of the challenges this country faces. Some days it’s tough knowing you can’t fix everything. Yet, amongst the good and the bad, I’m grateful for South Africa and its people. I hope in some small way, I can be a positive force here.
Mindful
Every day
I see or hear
something
that more or less
kills me
with delight,
that leaves me
like a needle
in the haystack
of light.
It is what I was born for—
to look, to listen,
to lose myself
inside this soft world—
to instruct myself
over and over
in joy,
and acclamation.
Nor am I talking
about the exceptional,
the fearful, the dreadful,
the very extravagant—
but of the ordinary,
the common, the very drab,
the daily presentations.
Oh, good scholar,
I say to myself,
how can you help
but grow wise
with such teachings
as these—
the untrimmable light,
of the world,
the ocean's shine,
the prayers that are made
out of grass?
Posted by kind permission of Salky Literary Management
Photo by Conor Sexton https://grateful.org/resource/mindful/
As another blessed day ends, the rain falls – a much-needed blessing here – and I trade the warmth of the sun for the promise of a cozy fireside evening. The music plays softly, the day fades, and I embrace this quiet solitude. Would you like to hear more about life as an expat? A country girl in a third-world country, retired and finally with the man of my dreams. It’s about finding joy in the slower pace, pursuing creative passions, and navigating the beauty and complexities of this life we’ve chosen. May your days be filled with light🕯️, love❣️ and magic🪄
